Wooden spoons, cutting boards, salad bowls and serving boards can last for decades. Wood is kind to knife edges, comfortable in the hand and warm to look at. It also needs a little care that plastic and steel do not: it dislikes long soaks, dishwashers and drying out completely.
The routine is simple once you know it: wash quickly, dry upright, oil when it looks thirsty.
Key takeaways
- Water is the main enemy, especially soaking and dishwashers. They swell the fibers, then cause cracking and warping as the wood dries.
- Oil regularly so the wood resists moisture and stains.
- Use food-grade products. Mineral oil and beeswax blends are common choices.
- Clean boards well after raw meat, or keep a separate board for it.
- Light sanding and oiling can refresh most worn pieces.
Everyday washing
- Scrape off food and rinse in warm water.
- Wash with a sponge or brush and a little mild dish soap.
- Rinse well.
- Towel dry immediately.
- Stand boards on edge or place utensils in an open container so all sides dry evenly.
Drying a board flat on one face can make it warp, because one side dries faster than the other.
Why not the dishwasher?
High heat, long exposure to water and strong detergents strip oils, raise the grain, loosen glued joints and lead to cracks. Even pieces labeled dishwasher-safe usually last longer when washed by hand.
Oiling and waxing
Oil soaks into the wood fibers and slows moisture absorption. Wax sits nearer the surface and adds a layer of water resistance and a soft sheen.
What to use
- Food-grade mineral oil: inexpensive, odorless and does not go rancid. The most common choice for boards and spoons.
- Board cream or butter: a blend of mineral oil and beeswax (sometimes with carnauba wax). Good for a final coat and extra water resistance.
- Fractionated coconut oil: sometimes used because it stays liquid and resists going rancid. Check that it is suitable for food contact.
- Avoid cooking oils such as olive, vegetable or sunflower oil for regular conditioning. They can go rancid and become sticky or smelly over time.
If you buy a product sold as a “finish,” check that it is labeled food-safe once cured and follow the curing time on the label.
How to oil
- Start with a clean, completely dry piece.
- Apply a generous amount of oil with a clean cloth or your hand, working along the grain, on every surface including the ends.
- Let it soak in for several hours or overnight.
- Wipe off any excess that has not absorbed.
- Optionally, finish with a thin coat of board cream and buff.
New or very dry pieces may take several coats over a few days.
How often?
Oil when the wood looks pale, dry or rough, or when water no longer beads on the surface. For heavily used boards that may be every few weeks; for occasional serving pieces, a few times a year.
Stains, smells and rough spots
- Smells: rub with coarse salt and half a lemon, leave for a few minutes, rinse and dry. Baking soda paste also works.
- Stains: a baking soda paste, or light sanding for stubborn marks.
- Fuzzy or raised grain: sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper along the grain, wipe off the dust, and oil.
- Knife scoring on boards: light sanding smooths the surface; deep grooves may need professional resurfacing.
Food safety
- Raw meat, poultry and fish: wash boards thoroughly with hot, soapy water after use, rinse and dry. Many cooks keep one board for raw proteins and another for bread, fruit and vegetables.
- Deep cuts and cracks can trap food and moisture. A board that is badly scored can be resurfaced; one that is cracked or split through should be replaced.
- Mold: small surface spots can sometimes be sanded out; if mold goes into the wood, or keeps coming back, replace the piece.
- Follow current guidance from your national food safety agency on cutting-board hygiene.
Boards: grain and construction
- Edge-grain boards are made from strips glued side by side. They are stable and affordable.
- End-grain boards show the ends of the wood fibers in a checkerboard pattern. They are gentle on knives and show fewer cuts, but are heavier and absorb more oil.
- Glue lines need protection from soaking, which is one more reason to avoid dishwashers.
Bowls, serving boards and decorative pieces
- Salad bowls: wash promptly after use; acidic dressings left in the bowl can dull the finish.
- Serving boards: oil occasionally and keep away from heat sources.
- Lacquered or painted pieces: do not oil over lacquer or paint. Clean with a damp cloth and follow the maker’s instructions; many decorative lacquered pieces, including some bento boxes and trays, are not meant to be soaked.
- Fruit stands and bowls: dust and wipe with a dry or barely damp cloth; oil only if the piece is unfinished.
Storage
- Store dry pieces in a ventilated place, not in a closed drawer while still damp.
- Keep away from stoves, radiators and direct sun to prevent drying and cracking.
- Hang boards or stand them on edge to allow airflow.
Styling wooden kitchenware
A row of boards leaning against a backsplash, a crock of wooden spoons beside the cooktop, or a large bowl of fruit on the table adds warmth to kitchens with stone, tile and steel. Wood pairs well with enamelware, linen and woven baskets. For the counter and wall behind it, see our guide to backsplash materials; for warmth on a larger scale, see reclaimed wood interiors.
When to replace a piece
- Deep cracks or splits, especially in cutting boards.
- Warping that makes a board rock on the counter.
- Mold that has penetrated the wood.
- Persistent smells after cleaning and oiling.
- Loose or failing glue joints.
Bottom line
Wash wooden kitchenware quickly by hand, dry it upright, oil it with a food-grade product when it looks dry, and keep it away from soaking, dishwashers and heat. With that routine, most good pieces will outlast the kitchen they started in.